Agritur La Dolce Mela

Valle dei Laghi, Italian Alps, Italy
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A spoiling, adult-only agriturismo with a strong eco and wellness angle, blissful breakfasts and quieter lakes to explore

A spoiling, adult-only agriturismo with a strong eco and wellness angle, blissful breakfasts and quieter lakes to explore

It was the Italians who pioneered agrotourism back in the 1970s, and now they're taking it to new levels of luxury. This "Sweet Apple", set among fragrant orchards at the foot of the Trento Alps, 40 minutes north of Lake Garda, is a case in point. It all started when Francesca and her not-yet-husband Moreno were on holiday in Sicily, dreaming about their perfect guesthouse, with a view to creating it on this land he'd inherited. Their wishlist? Plenty of space, both indoors and out; a maximum of 20 guests; lots of healthy, zero-mile food for breakfast; help-yourself afternoon cakes, drinks and fruit; EV chargers, solar energy, and e-bikes to borrow. And the bedrooms? Locally crafted materials (oak and pine panelling), bathtubs for lazy soaks and - why not - some in-room saunas too. But no TVs or reception desk, and no children to disturb that wonderful natural tranquility.
 
And here's the result. A beautifully rebuilt barn with all of the above, housed in eight generous rooms (yes, two of them with saunas), plus a new architect-designed, grass-roofed annex with three strikingly modernist suites. There's a blissful chemical-free pool, and a firepit for BBQ evenings. It really is the perfect antidote to 21st-century stresses and strains. And it happens to be on the edge of one of the loveliest lake- and mountain landscapes in the world.
 

Highs

    • A tranquil setting at the foot of the Trento Alps, away from the crowds of Lake Garda, but within reach of this and quieter lakes
    • A genuinely sustainable focus: wood-chip heating, local larch cladding, underfloor heating, a chemical-free pool, photovoltaic cells, and more
    • This is a place to recharge yourself too: some rooms have hydromassage tubs, two have private saunas
    • The amazing breakfast is one of the most varied and appetising spreads we've tasted in italy
    • Weekly summer barbecues are a great way to meet like-minded guests, if you want to

Lows

    • No children: this is a grown-up retreat
    • Evening meals are limited to weekly barbecues and a light-bite menu (but there are good restaurants a short drive away)
    • No TVs in the bedrooms
    • The three newer eco-suites aren't everyone's style, though some rave about them (we met guests who book them a year ahead)

Best time to go

We think April-June and September-early October are the best months. They're usually warm and sunny, perfect for hiking and cycling (especially April-May), and also good for swimming & watersports (especially June & September), as well as general exploration. We stayed in mid September and loved the clear early-autumn days and still-warm lake waters. July and August are hotter (generally around 30ºC), with lots of visitors around the main lakes (especially Garda); but it's much quieter up here in the Valle dei Laghi, and there are plenty of smaller, more secluded lakes nearby.

Our top tips

The setting in the Valle dei Laghi (Valley of the Lakes) means you can combine visits to ever-popular Lake Garda (30-40 mins' drive south) with lesser-known lakes (such as lovely Lamar and Santo, 5-10 mins' drive north), as well as stunning mountain hikes (we love the area around Molveno), totally untouristy villages, and great-value vineyards. And the quieter roads here are great for cycling too - ideally on one of the hotel's e-bikes, given the gradients!

Great for...

Eco
Great Outdoors
Romantic
  • Eco agriturismo
  • 11 rooms
  • Breakfast only, drive to restaurants
  • Adults only
  • Closed: November
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car essential
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Bicycles Available
  • Electric car charger
Room:

Rooms

Of the 11 rooms, eight are in the main building (four up, four down), with three suites in a striking modern annex in the garden. We liked them all in their own way: it's really a matter of taste, and perhaps availability.

The main rooms feel more agrotouristy - but still very smart - with floors and walls faced in smooth local pine, large prints of nearby mountains or fruit groves, and perhaps an old wooden rake or toboggan repurposed as a towel rack. Upstairs rooms here have sloping eaves and a balcony with garden views; downstairs rooms have a well-screened patio. Sleek bathrooms come mostly with shower; a few have a jacuzzi or an in-room tub; and one (the Elite Wellness Suite) also has a private sauna. We loved the jars of bath salts for soothing trek-weary muscles, and the hospitality tray with its home-mixed, apple-infused green tea.

The newer suites are more eye-catching - Trento-based architects raro won awards for their bold 2019 design - with flared rectangular facades, larch cladding, living roofs and huge picture windows. The same angular lines and raw materials continue inside, complemented by some designer chairs and edgy pendant light fittings. You get whirlpool tubs and private saunas, tall wetrooms with drench showers, sheer curtains for privacy, and overhead skylights for a sense of the infinite. We liked Relax Escape (the furthest) for its seclusion and extra space; Sweet Dream (the middle) for its sunken jacuzzi; and Natural Romance (the nearest) for its cosy tucked-away-ness. In fact, the only thing we weren't mad on were the names.

Features include:

  • Central heating
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Hairdryer
  • Minibar
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

I'd read about the fantastic breakfasts here, but the sheer beauty and variety of it still blew me away: dozens and dozens of pretty ramekins and mini-Kilner jars with handmade, zero-mile, largely organic concoctions - both sweet and savoury - as well as home-baked cakes, superb coffees and freshly pressed juices from their orchards. My favourites were the mango and coconut kefir, the grilled sweet pepper strips wrapped around feta and garden herbs, the apple strudel and kräfen (cream buns from Alto Adige), and the salmon, avo and courgette carpaccio. It's like starting the day with a multi-course, micro-tasting menu! 

There's no lunch - not that you'll need much - but cakes, pastries and hot drinks are left out all day for you to graze from if you need it. For dinner, you've a dozen excellent restaurants within 20km, from the rustic and generous Ca dei Giosi in neighbouring Covelo (where my slow-cooked pork shoulder with polenta and sauerkraut was enough to feed a family of four) to the refined cuisine of lakeside Castel Toblino, a popular venue for special occasions.

If you don't fancy driving, you can order light bites (salads, cold cuts, 'Trento toasties') and drinks (including cock- and mocktails) from a small but well thought-out house menu. Or on Mondays, when many restaurants are closed, join their sociable BBQ evening by the pool, for fresh-grilled meats and trout served with polenta.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Barbecue
  • Breakfast
  • Vegan options
  • Vegetarian options
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Don't miss the gorgeous little lakes of Santo and Lamar, 5-10 mins' drive north: tucked amid beech forests beneath the towering ridges of Monte Ranzo, their waters are so crystal clear, you can see trout swimming beneath you
  • Heading south, the mid-sized lakes of Toblino and Cavedine are great for waterside wanders and secluded SUP trips (you can rent from Windvalley on Cavedine's eastern shore)
  • We enjoyed climbing the medieval hilltop fort of Castel Drena, with its 27-meter tower, atmospheric ruins and long views over morraine-scattered landscapes to the Brenta Dolomites
  • Nearby is the short but satisfying Rio Sallagoni via ferrata: a guide is recommended (if not, helmet, harness and agility are essential)
  • Beyond that is lovely Lake Garda, the grande dame of the Italian Lakes, with its elegant towns (Riva, Torbole and Malcesine are the nearest, and among the most beautiful), as well as sailing, windsurfing, shopping, and cable cars up to Monte Baldo for speedy access to Alpine-level hikes
  • Ditch the car for a day and borrow the hotel's e-bikes for a leisurely cycle through the hills: the Sentiero della Nosiola from Toblino to Cavedine is a gentle route through vineyards, while the Ponale is a Garda-side classic
  • Stop off for some sparkling wine or grappa tasting: Santa Massenza supposedly has more distilleries than any other Italian village
  • Other activities include horse-riding through chestnut woods, wakeboarding on Lake Terlago, plus climbing or fishing (ask staff for details)

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Climbing
  • Cycling
  • Farm tours
  • Hiking
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Sauna
  • Spa treatments
  • SUP
  • Swimming
  • Wildlife
  • Wine tasting

Kids

Only guests over 18 permitted; this is an adults only retreat.

Kid Friendly:

Location

Agritur La Dolce Mela is between Lake Garda and the Dolomites in the Valle dei Laghi area.

By Air
Fly to Verona or Bergamo (1h30 or 2h away, respectively); or for a wider choice of airlines, to Venice or Milan (2h20 or 2h50 respectively).

By Train
Trento station is 12km (20 mins' drive) away, and you can hire a car there.

Getting Around
We do recommend having a car as there are no restaurants within walking distance. See our car rental recommendations. There's an EV charger at the hotel.

Airports:

  • Verona (Valerio Catullo) 165.0 km VRN
  • Bergamo (Il Caravaggio) 190.0 km BGY

Other:

  • Beach 200.0 km
  • Shops 2.0 km
  • Restaurant 1.0 km

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