East Bali is perhaps the most dramatic and wildest corner of the island, with rice terraces tumbling down steep volcanic hillsides, past cascading waterfalls and deep caves, to little-visited surfer beaches. Dotted amongst this landscape are traditional villages, colourful markets and ancient temple complexes; while, watching over them all, is the island's highest volcano, Gunung Agung - known to the locals as Mother Mountain.
Highlights include the waterfall-in-a-cave at Tukad Cepung (bring hiking shoes which you don't mind getting wet), the water palaces at Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga (the latter can get busy, try and arrive early), and the temples of Besakih (Balinese pilgrimage site) and Lempuyang (with the highly Instagrammable 'Gates of Heaven').
In terms of beaches, we love the still-tranquil fishing village of Amed - which also offers world-class snorkelling and diving (corals, colourful fish, turtles and the relatively accessible shipwreck of USAT Liberty).
In you want an adventure, book a guide to climb Mt. Agung, a still active volcano whose pyramidal 3,000-metre summit dominates the landscape in a way that's reminiscent of Mt. Fuji. Don't underestimate the challenge, though: the full ascent takes 6-8 hours, starting before dawn, with the added possibility of altitude sickness. A shorter and more popular route (Pura Pasar, 4-5 hours) brings you to the crater rim at 2,800m, and has the extra benefit of a higher start point.