Set in Bali’s quiet, beautifully untouched central region, this is the second outpost of Desa Seni and the very best yet. As you drive north from the airport, car parks become paddy fields, hotels become hills and the crowds give way to grazing cattle. Desa Seni Baturiti’s serenity reflects its surroundings: terraced fields, temples, and lush, green jungle that sweeps into mountains – the only sounds are those of birds, cicadas, and monkeys. Mount Catur flanks the distance, blue at dawn and dusk. The location is unparalleled and a very different side to the Bali most visitors see.
Walking into the hotel, past vibrant orange walls, and out into luscious, organic, landscaped gardens, we felt like we had arrived somewhere truly special. The hotel is the stunning product of owner Thomas’ 20+ years in Indonesia, and his love of collecting antiques which now decorate each of the eight carefully renovated, traditional teakwood cottages. It manages to blend design and comfort, carefully incorporated into the nature in which it sits, you feel you're in a forest or jungle clearing. Eco-retreat Desa Seni felt to us like the place to reconnect, with yourself and with the nature around you. Stay long enough to order everything on the excellent local and seasonal menu of global delights, it’s utterly delicious. And while away days here doing yoga, learning about permaculture, or relaxing, feeling totally held in tranquil, understated, design-led luxury.
Highs
- A really special location, offering guests the rare opportunity of an unobtrusive glimpse into Indonesian village life whilst staying in a really comfortable hotel
- Artful design runs through every inch of the hotel: in the fixtures, fittings, and furniture
- Seasons restaurant serves incredible and inventive food, with superlative breakfasts and proper coffee
- The carefully curated wellness and spa treatments truly deliver, the massages were perhaps the best we’ve ever had
- Eco measures include rainwater collection, local community education initiatives, eco-septic and water purification systems
Lows
- It’s situated near a small local village in central Bali so there isn’t a huge amount to ‘do’ within walking distance
- Very much off the beaten track so allow some time to reach the property
Best time to go
April to October is the dry season when most flock to Bali, but Desa Seni Baturiti would work wonders for the soul, rain or shine. You'd need a couple of nights here for the full experience.
Our top tips
Walk around the village as the sun’s coming up or going down. We felt like we got to see a side of Bali often unseen, immersing ourselves in village life and the nature surrounding it.
- Eco-retreat
- 9 rooms
- Restaurant (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Laundry Service
Rooms
One of the best things about Desa Seni is its eight cottages: remarkable, unique, teakwood structures salvaged over the years from all over the Indonesian archipelago and transported to Bali. Each one is a work of art. We stayed in Rumah Mandau, nearest the pool, restaurant and yoga shala but farthest from the other cottages.
Despite their heritage, there’s more that’s chic about the rooms than rustic. Thomas’ former life in the furniture industry translates to supreme interiors and sleek design throughout which contrasts nicely with the natural materials deployed everywhere. Sumptuous fabrics and textiles are draped over crisp linen on beds with pillows you can lose yourself in.
Each bedroom has an en-suite bathroom with rainfall shower which has a backdrop of carefully chosen, hand-painted tiles. Toiletries are provided including an organic, botanical body wash. Each room also has a charming porch area looking out onto abundant plantlife. We gleefully read from the daybed here when an afternoon rainstorm stirred the jungle in front.
Features include:
- Coffee / tea making
- Fan
- Safe box
- Terrace/balcony
- Toiletries
- WiFi
Eating
A short walk from each of the rooms, and an even shorter walk from the pool, is Desa Seni’s Seasons Restaurant with indoor-outdoor eating overlooking the jungle. Head Chef Willy Kobylt and owner Thomas are on a mission to offer sustainable farm-to-table dining for every meal, with 80% of the entire menu sourced from Desa Seni’s own organic farms, and the rest from villages nearby. Provenance and seasonality are key. Fish is line-caught, fruit is at its freshest, and you can hear the chickens laying the morning’s eggs in the adjacent smallholding.
The menu is global; Indonesian dishes influenced by Willy’s native French cuisine and years travelling the world, amassing recipes and perfecting his craft. We loved the seared tuna steak, the fresh crab ravioli, and indulgent chocolate cake. It feels inventive and interesting but doesn’t lose itself in foam or pomp.
For breakfast, fresh coffee from an endless cafetiere and a long menu of fresh juices are served alongside fresh fruit. The main event was a poached egg in a homemade herb crepe with oyster mushrooms but could have been a smoothie bowl with coconut and bee pollen, or an Indonesian tempeh soup with lemongrass and soybean.
The restaurant is open from morning till night and nothing seemed too much trouble for the friendly waiters and kitchen staff. There are a couple of restaurants nearby but nothing in the same league.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Dinner by arrangement
- Kids' meals
- Lunch by arrangement
- Restaurant
- Room service
- Vegan options
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Many guests would come here for the daily yoga, meditation, and mantras in the open-sided pavilion with a host of classes on offer. They can also tailor programmes for you ahead of arrival
- Permaculture tours are offered in which you can find out about the local cuisine, herbs, spices and flowers and how they’re incorporating these into Desa Seni’s cooking
- There’s also an area for creative expression which offers guests the chance to paint, draw, bead, throw clay, or write. Throw caution to the wind and get stuck in
- From Desa Seni, you can organise day trips to a number of local areas. 25 minutes away, there's the beautiful Hindu temple at Bedugul on the shores of Lake Beratan, as well as the 165ft Nungnung waterfall
- 45 minutes away, you can find Ubud, which boasts cascading Tegalalang rice terraces, as well as many, high-end restaurants
- Slightly further afield is Mount Batur volcano, a popular spot for hiking and hot springs
- Explore Bali’s jurassic-park-esque nature at its very best including the Bali Botanical Garden; the team can organise excursions to any of the above and more
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Art classes
- Cooking classes
- Historical sites
- Meditation
- Private guided tours
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
- Well being
- Yoga
Kids
Children are welcome, and there's a special menu for them but we don’t think loud and lively kids would truly fit in here.
Best for:
Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
One house – Rumah Seni (Deluxe Family) – has the option of two additional beds so sleeps a family of four. Bendi and Mandau cottages are also recommended for families. Baby cots can be added to all room types. Note there are no bathtubs.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Distances:
- Airport: 1.5 hours
- Hospital: 30 minutes
- Shops: 30 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Desa Seni Baturiti is located down a small track road near a village called Baturiti in Central Bali. It’s just 1.5hrs north of Bali’s international airport and around 45 minutes from popular Ubud.
By Air:
Fly to Denpasar Ngurah Rai airport. There are regular flights from all over the world although no direct flights from the UK. The quickest connections are via Qatar, Bangkok, and Singapore for UK visitors.
From the Airport:
It's an easy, 1.5hr transfer from the airport. Desa Seni can organise this.
Getting Around:
Guests can hire motorbikes or a car with a driver or self-drive. Desa Seni can arrange motorbike hire or book a car and driver for you. The Go Jek online app isn't as available here as in other areas.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- I Gusti Ngurah Rai Airport aka Denpasar International Airport 58.0 km DPS
Other:
- Beach 41.0 km
- Shops 4.5 km
- Restaurant 2.2 km