The central strip of beaches between Anjuna, Baga and Calangute is - or was - the epicentre of the legendary, laid-back Goa which attracted hippies in the 70s and ravers in the 90s. A government clampdown in the nineties and noughties means that they are now cleaner but also more developed, with lots of resorts. We'd generally recommend avoiding these beaches altogether and heading further north (beyond Siolim), or inland (even a few miles will whisk you away from the crowds), or south (beyond Majorda).
Heading north, Arambol and Mandrem are among north Goa's most beautiful beaches, distinguished by the freshwater lake that almost reaches the sea. They are easily reached via the bridge from Siolim, or by regular buses from Panjim (taking 1 hour and 45 minutes) and Mapusa. A recent increase in tourists, especially from Russia, means that the main beach tends to get a bit crowded now. You can take the coastal path north of the beach over the headland to reach Keri, a wonderful stretch of white sand. Or head south across the estuary to find some privacy and solitude at Otter Creek Tents and The Beach Houses, some of our favourite accommodations in north Goa - if you can find availability! There's also a wonderful wellness retreat on nearby Ashvem Beach.
Heading inland, it only takes a few miles to leave the crowds behind. We've found some tranquil hideaways - such as this hilltop villa for 2-7 inland from Calangute, and the exotic Mogul-meets-Moorish Nilaya Hermitage Hotel near Arpora, both of which would make good bases for those wanting to dip into the beach action (and the buzzing towns) by day, and then retreat into tropical forests by night.
Heading south, see our guide to South Goa - including options near Gokarna, across the border into Karnataka.
Finally, if you're set on being right on one of the central beaches, stylish Aashyana on Candolim (just south of Calangute) is our top tip - often called "Goa's best-kept secret" - to the point that it can no longer be entirely true. It offers a variety of cottages, beach huts and a palatial mansion for up to 13.