Pelion Seaview Villa

Argalasti, Pelion, Greece
Book from GBP Book from £413 per night

A blissfully secluded family home set among shimmering olive groves above the placid seas of the Pagasitic (sleeps 10-12)

A blissfully secluded family home set among shimmering olive groves above the placid seas of the Pagasitic (sleeps 10-12)

If you don't mind the slightly longer journey, we think this is the perfect house for a tranquil family Greek holiday by the sea. Set 8 minutes' walk above a secluded sandy beach, you get homely living spaces stacked with books and games, a well equipped kitchen, 5-6 bedrooms across two floors, plus shady stepped gardens with olive and fruit trees (and the odd hammock), and a big vine-shaded patio for alfresco meals and table tennis games. But its trump card - and this is where we spent most of our time - is its big covered balcony out front, with mesmerising views past olive groves to the mirror-still seas of the Pagasitic Gulf, framed by misty blue mountains.

The house is owned by an Anglo-Greek family who divide their time between Athens, USA and here (I know which I prefer!), and is perhaps less flashy than some of our other Greek villas. For example there's no pool or air-conditioning, and only 3 bathrooms in total; but this is all reflected in the prices, which are extremely reasonable. We spent a blissful week here with two other families, swimming and snorkelling, wandering along the coast to pretty Kalamos, buying fresh fish and honey at Argalasti market, exploring frescoed churches and Centaurs' caves; and I know we would all return like a shot.

Highs

    • At sunset, those ever-changing sea views are like a free cinema show: the perfect backdrop to dinner on the balcony
    • With five bedrooms (six if you count the adjoining singles separately), it's big enough for two families, or even three
    • The wooded Pelion peninsula is a wonderfully unsung part of the Greek mainland, with handsome mountain villages and sleepy fishing harbours
    • A great spot for snorkelling, SUP or pottering along the coast in a hired boat: the waters are enclosed and very sheltered
    • It's great value for money

Lows

    • It's a long drive from the nearest major airports: Athens (4 hours) or Thessaloniki (3 hours)
    • The decor is more homely and rustic than boutique-chic
    • There's no pool (but the sea is only a short walk away)
    • There's no A/C, only ceiling fans (and supplementary fans if needed)

Best time to go

We think May, June, September and October are the perfect months: warm but not too hot (Pelion is usually a little cooler than some of the Greek islands), and never crowded (except perhaps over Greek Easter and the last weekend in October which is Ohi Day). We visited in late October and loved long swims and paddles in the still-warm sea; 6 days out of 7 were bright, sunny and almost cloud-free. Being so near a beach, it's also a good option for midsummer holidays, if you can find availability and don't mind the lack of pool or air-con (there are fans, though).

Our top tips

The house is well stocked with (English) books, games, CDs, as well as a beach umbrella and towels, so you don't need to bring any of those. A mask and snorkel are worth bringing, plus an SUP if you have one (and the appetite to bring it over!); otherwise, at nearby Kalamos or Milina, you can hire kayaks or a 25HP boat to pootle along the coast and explore. 

Great for...

Beach
Eco
Family
Great Outdoors
  • Coastal Villa
  • 6 bedrooms
  • Self-catering
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Walk to beach
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car essential
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Daily Maid Service
  • Towels & Bedlinen
Room:

Rooms

The upstairs sitting room is the heart of the house, opening onto a broad covered balcony with dining table, deck chairs and fabulous views. The sitting room leads past a small inside dining room and bar area to the kitchen.

There are 3 bedrooms upstairs - a master double (with a shower bathroom opposite, and wonderful sea views from the small balcony) and 2 semi-sepatated single rooms (which share their own small shower room, and also have direct access to the rear patio). And a further 3 bedrooms downstairs: 2 twins and 1 double, which open directly onto the lower garden patio, and which share a bathroom with tub and overhead shower. All told, the house sleeps 10 in comfort, and 12 at a pinch using a pair of rollaway beds as required.

Throughout the house, expect slate-paved floors, Greek rugs, hand-embroidered cushions, and an eclectic collection of arty trinkets - painted ceramic plates, vintage wooden chests, old olive-harvesting implements. Above all,  there are masses of homely touches (books, games, CDs, and a few family photos) which attest to the owners' ongoing use of this house as an occasional weekend escape.

Features include:

  • Board games
  • Central heating
  • Fan
  • Fireplace
  • Mosquito net
  • TV
  • Washing machine
  • WiFi

Eating

The kitchen is small but well equipped - especially by Greek standards - and not just in terms of applicances (big fridge, dishwasher, microwave, breadmaker, electric mixer, toaster etc), but also in the smaller utensils and supplies which can make cooking so much easier. I'm thinking of spatulas and salad bowls, kilner jars and handy boxes, sharp knives and graters etc, as well as a starter stock of herbs, spices, teas, honey and maybe some jam if the owner has recently made a batch. Talking of which, you're welcome to pick grapes, quinces, lemons when in season, as well as herbs from the garden. 

When it comes to shopping and eating out, the untouristy but quietly charming farmers' village of Argalasti is 4km up the hill (10mins' drive), with a few small supermarkets and groceries, and a surprising array of eateries (including some lovely open-air tavernas on the main square, and a handy souvlaki takeaway on the corner of the main road). Plus there's a bustling Saturday market where you can stock up on fresh fish from the peripatetic van (we had fantastic sea bream and red mullet), or local nuts, herbs and honeys from the stalls (the thick, dark forest honey was a winner with us). Take a phone for translating.

For more scenic dinners, the pretty seafront village of Kalamos (15 mins' circuitous drive, or 20 mins' walk along the coast - take torches) has a few eateries, including the highly rated Symmetron and popular Oasis - both specialising in fresh fish and Mediterranean baked veg dishes. And we also love Petrino in Horto (20 mins' drive). If coming outside summer, do check opening times in advance.

Features include:

  • Barbecue
  • Basic ingredients provided
  • Dishwasher
  • Fridge
  • Full kitchen
  • Hob or stove
  • Microwave
  • Oven
  • Self-catering
  • Toaster
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • We spent much of our time on lovely, secluded Belian beach (pebble-sand mix), just a 7-min walk downhill from the house (but 10 on the way back up!); snorkelling, kayaking, swimming and sunbathing was the order of our day, and we had it to ourselves some of the time
  • Hire sea kayaks, SUPs or a 25HP boat from Paou or Milina (the owners can advise) to pootle along the sheltered coastline, stopping off at tiny hamlets or hotels for a coffee and swim
  • There are lovely, gentle hikes in these southerly foothills of Mt. Pelion: two old stone-laid trails run from Argalasti down, past olive groves and shady streambeds, to the beaches of Lefokastro and Kalamos (1-2 hours each); or connect them together in a 4-hour triangular route
  • Head north to the mountain villages of Vyzitsa, famed for its handsome timber-and-slate mansions; and Milies, with its amazing frescoed church and footpath to the mythical cave-home of Centaur Chiron
  • From Milies, a tiny steam train winds at jogging pace through the Pelion hills towards Volos - a fun journey for younger kids, and great views too
  • Over on the plunging east coast, the cliff-backed cove of Fakistra, the rock arch of Milopotamos and the picturesque fishing village of Damouhari (a Mamma Mia film location) are highlights
  • We love the wild and windswept beaches of Paltsi and Potistika on the Aegean side; the latter has a lovely restaurant, Climax, for sundown cocktails and bites
  • Or south to the instagrammable sea-lapped houses and beach of Tzasteni, or to the Skiathos-facing coasts of Platania and Vromoneri

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Boat trips
  • Canyoning
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking
  • Mountain biking
  • Scuba diving
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming
  • Table tennis
  • Watersports

Kids

This is a great house for one, two or even three families holidaying together. Given the isolation, we think it's best for those with younger children who aren't looking for buzz or nightlife, and especially for beach- and sea-lovers (of all ages!).

Of the six bedrooms, there are two twins (perfect for younger kids), and a pair of adjoining single rooms which work well for teens. Cots and extra beds are available for larger groups, though it might start to feel a bit of a squeeze, especially with only 3 bathrooms. 

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Cots Available, Extra Beds Available

Kids Activities on site:

  • Table tennis
  • Board games

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Belian beach (7 mins' walk)
  • Kayaking, SUP and other boat trips (Kalamos 6km / Milina 12km)
  • Steam train (Milies, 25km)

Families Should Know:

There are no stair gates, and the outside steps are faced in hard slate; there are some unprotected drops around the grounds, so keep an eye on any roving toddlers.

Kid Friendly:

Location

The house is situated below Argalasti village and above Belian beach, on the west-facing coast of the Pelion peninsula in mainland Greece. The nearest city is Volos (1 hour's drive).

By Air
Best options are Thessaloniki (3+ hours' drive) or Athens (4+ hours' drive; wider range of flights). Or you could try Volos Nea Anchialos (1.5 hours' drive), but there are currently no direct flights from the UK.

From the airport
You'll absolutely need a car, as it's 4km drive from Argalasti village (supermarkets and tavernas), or 20 mins' walk to Kalamos village (a couple of tavernas but no shops). See our car rental recommendations.

Airports:

  • Thessaloniki ("Makedonia") 270.0 km SKG
  • Athens ("Eleftherios Venizelos") 400.0 km ATH

Other:

  • Beach 0.4 km
  • Shops 4.0 km
  • Restaurant 4.0 km

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