Zannier Bai San Ho

Rooms

Spread across the 240-acre bay and surrounding hillsides, Bai San Ho's 73 villas range from 1 to 4 bedrooms and 4 different categories, based on position and view.

Throughout, the style is all natural muted eco-chic: reclaimed floor timbers, traditional reed ceilings and cob-plastered walls, pepped up with decorative calabash gourds, handwoven bamboo baskets and conical leaf hats. All come with comfy kingsize beds, deep bathtubs and power showers, minibar and tea/coffee facilities (or full kitchen in the Grand Bay villas); and all but the Paddy Field villas have their own pool – which is surprisingly large!

Top of the pile are the Grand Bay Pool Villas, inspired by ancient Ede long houses. With 3 or 4 bedrooms and 300 sq.m of inside space, they're perfect for two families travelling together, or a family coming with grandparents and/or nanny. Best of all, perhaps, are the uninterrupted sea views from the pool and large outdoor sitting-dining terrace – even from the bathtub!

The wonderful Beach Pool Villas have barefoot access straight onto the sands. With cooling wooden claustra screens, outdoor showers, plunge pool, private deck, two ensuite bathrooms and a kitchen corner, we think the two-bedroom versions in particular are perfect for a family.

A notch cheaper are the Hillside Pool Villas perched up amid lush greenery. We stayed in a one-bedroom villa, these are perfect for honeymooners as the most remote and private, and come with incredible views over coastline and lagoons plus huge pools and inside/outside living areas. Note you'll have to order a buggy to take you down to the beach and restaurants.

If your budget only stretches to the entry-level (and still spacious) Terrace and Paddy Field Villas, don't panic. They may lack plunge pools and long views, but you're ensconced in greenery around the gardens and rice paddies, and the beds and bathtub are equally luxurious – and half the price of the Hillsides.

Features include:

• Air conditioning
• Bathrobes
• Minibar
• Safe box
• Toiletries
• TV
• WiFi

Eating

With three on-site restaurants offering multiple different cuisines, you can comfortably rotate between them without getting bored. Chefs take pride in delighting all the senses: beautiful plate arrangements for the eye, fresh spices for the nose, crispy finger food for touch. And are passionate about balancing opposites – be it salty and sweet, fresh and fermented, warming and cooling.

On the hillside next to reception with a separate cocktail bar at the huge outdoor infinity pool, Nhà O is the resort's main restaurant. We absolutely loved breakfast here – a total smorgasbord from around the world: everything from stinky French cheese with fresh sourdough breads to local sizzling beef, crispy pork belly and coconut coffee; fresh fruit platters, cured meats and cheese, pastries, eggs any way.

The menu for other meals showcases traditional Vietnamese dishes from different regions as well as a couple of pizza and pasta dishes. Expect plentiful seafood, pork and chicken, broths and dumplings; plus mouth-watering desserts from the exotic (raspberry and lemongrass soup with mangosteen) to the Gallic (chocolate mousse with coffee & Chantilly). We feasted on Bun Cha (BBQ pork on noodles with mixed leaves and dipping sauce) and a spicy tofu stir fry with greens and glass noodles – all really delicious.

For something more adventurous, Bà Hai offers traditional Vietnamese cuisine in an equally traditional setting: a stilted barn (with 12m-high thatched roof!) overlooking the paddy fields. The set menu covers classics like Pho (beef broth) and spring rolls (with crab meat and dipping sauce), and a few outliers such as Hanoi-style seasoned pork with dried mushroom pastry and bean sprouts. They're paired with handpicked organic teas, and rounded off with a shot of local rice wine. In quieter months this restaurant closes, and is used for cooking classes and private dining.

If you prefer a more laid-back beachfront vibe for lunch, book a thatched hut at Lang Chai for fresh-grilled seafood and meats, alongside a shortlist of Asian options, to the backdrop of rumbling waves. We had beautifully presented fried spring rolls (crab), stir fried morning glory and beef and noodle salad.

Plentiful wines, beers and cocktails are to be had; plus fantastic fruit blends for the non-drinkers (dragonfruit and guava ginger beer, anyone?).

Guests in Grand Bay Villas also have a full kitchen at their disposal: either book a chef, or give a shopping list to a Guest Assistant who will return with the goods, and utensils to prepare it (both these options are at extra cost).

Features include:

• Bar
• Restaurant
• Vegetarian options

Activities

• On your doorstep is a 1-km blond-sand beach, fringed by palms and pines, studded with pink rocks and exquisite shells, and washed by surfing-friendly warm waves
  
• The snorkelling is superb, with coral reefs and basalt rock columns just offshore, and equipment to borrow. It's free – along with the kayaks and SUPs
  
• Or sail across the bay on a windsurfer, hydrofoil or catamaran, even on water skis or a wakeboard – for a small fee
  
• Daily changing free morning activities could include guided local walks or beginners yoga
  
• Work up a sweat on the tennis or padel courts, in the gym, or with a game of beach volleyball
  
• Follow a walking trail into the hills above the resort for views over the whole peninsula; picnics can be supplied
  
• Learn traditional fishing techniques from the locals on a long boat excursion
  
• Borrow bikes to explore the neighbouring villages, shrimp farms, salt fields and fresh food markets
  
• Chill out in the spa – which offers massages, herbal therapies, acupressure, plant-based elixirs, meditations and marine skincare
  
• Staff can arrange trips to the wooded Van Hoa Plateau or the bird-rich O Loan Lagoon, as well as cookery lessons, lobster farm visits, or a tour of local Cham temples. But in all honesty, there are probably better places in Vietnam to do these, so we'd advise just kicking back and enjoying the life of a 5-star castaway!

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Birdwatching
• Cooking classes
• Fishing
• Historical sites
• Kayaking
• Snorkelling
• SUP
• Swimming
• Tennis
• Traditional cultures
• Volleyball
• Watersports
• Windsurfing
• Yoga

Kids

This is a fantastic option with kids who love beaches, watersports and a bit of adventure, so long as their parents don't mind a long journey and some strong tropical sunshine.

The kids club (open daily from 8 am till 6 pm) welcomes kids aged 2-12 with indoor and outdoor play areas, activities such as ping-pong, badminton, board games, crafts, and story-reading in the library or outside on hammocks.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The 2-bedroom villas are ideal for most families, with one kingsize double and one double/twin (both ensuite), plus space for a cot or two; and a private plunge pool. Some Paddy Villas interconnect but we think the Beachfront ones are worth the small extra cost compared to the Hillsides (which are also harder to negotiate with buggies); these latter ones are closer to the pool. Larger families will have to upgrade to a Grand Bay villa with 3 or 4 bedrooms; this brings with it a full kitchen, large outdoor decks and a bigger pool with infinity edges.

Distances:

• Airport: 4 hours (Nha Trang), 1.5 hours (Qui Nhon/Tuy Hoa)

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Bai San Ho is on the east coast of Vietnam, about 35km south of Qui Nhon (or Quy Nhon) city. It's 200km north of Nha Trang and 340-350km south of Hoi An and Danang.

By Air
Both Qui Nhon (also called Phu Cat, 1 hour's drive) and Tuy Hoa (also called Dong Tac, 1.5 hours) have domestic flights from HCMC and Hanoi. The nearest international airport is Cam Ranh, outside Nha Trang, which is a good 4 hours' drive away.

By Train
The Reunification Express, which runs the length of Vietnam, stops at Dieu Tri just outside Qui Nhon, offering a fun alternative to flying if you're feeling adventurous. It takes 3.5-5 hours from Nha Trang, or 4-6 hours from Danang, so the 'Express' tag is a bit of a misnomer. See Seat 61 for more details.

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.