Marialva is one of those places where, on arrival, your first reaction will be an open-jawed 'Wow!'. The crenellations of its lofty fortress, narrow cobbled streets and cluster of granite-built houses feel strangely out-of-time, harking back to an age when this was the frontline of battle between Spain and a newly born kingdom of Portugal. Nowadays the spirit of the place is far less aggressive: with a population of just 30 souls and another 40 or so when Casas do Coro is at full tilt, the village is dreamily peaceful and conducive to quiet contemplation of the soaring vistas out across the surrounding plain.
Casas do Coro is a collection of granite houses and eco cabins, with a shared pool, garden and restaurant. A couple are cosy hideaways for 2, but most are bigger and split into self-contained rooms with kitchenettes, or have a shared kitchen for a group rental. But we'd forget self-catering - what makes a stay here doubly special is the inspired cuisine: dine here on a balmy summer night and the memory will stay with you for years to come.
Highs
- Marialva is a listed National Heritage site, and the castle ruins are incredible
- Romantic and indulgent; candelit dinners, breakfast served whenever you want, a double daybed area above the pool (stargaze here at night), and an open-air sunset lounge
- Delightful owners and very kind, attentive staff; nothing is too much trouble
- Great food (home cooking with gourmet flourishes); or you can self cater
- Suits both couples and larger groups/families
Lows
- No restaurants or shops in the village
- Not all accommodation has self-catering facilities, and the restaurant doesn't open until 8pm
- Not ideal for toddlers - an unheated pool, lots of unprotected drops and no kids' meals
- Some rooms are flouncy, others a bit tired, but there's such a range of styles that you'll find something you love
- Marialva? You may not have heard of it but this is a fascinating region and just 2.5 hours from Porto
Best time to go
All year round. The Douro has a micro-climate, which massively boosts the quality and style of its wines, and on average, temperatures are higher than in Porto, and rainfall is less. Spring and autumn are the most popular times to go - April-June and September-October.
Our top tips
Be sure to visit the amazing Côa Valley Archaeological Museum and Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1998. The valley is home to some of the world's most extensive open-air Palaeolithic rock art, and the museum, a stunning piece of contemporary architecture in its own right, helps breathe life into these ancient stones with its state-of-the-art video and computerised installations. It provides a thrilling museum experience for kids and adults alike.
- Rural Resort
- 13 houses with 1-4 bedrooms
- Breakfast incl; some self catering; restaurant
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pools
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Tennis Court
- Bicycles Available
- Laundry Service
Rooms
Casas do Coro grew organically, as owners Carmen and Paolo slowly restored several village houses. This gradual evolution is mirrored in the varying decorative styles.
In some houses, rooms are let on an individual basis and have a kitchenette; they share a large sitting room. In others, rooms share a common kitchen and living room: these would be the obvious choice for groups of family or friends. Casa do Coro is the only house without any kitchen facilities (although if you rent one suite in a house otherwise occupied by a group, you may not get a kitchen; ask if this is important to you). See Rates for detailed descriptions.
The interiors reflect Carmen's love of antiques and country-style. There are antique bedside table and dressers, retro bedside lamps, stunning chandeliers, chaise-longues, ottomans and ornate headboards. Vast, ridiculously comfy beds are dressed with hand-embroidered sheets and quilted throws, there are masses of framed prints.
We adored the newer pod-like units - Junior Suite and Superior Junior Suite - which have more contemporary interiors. Their glass frontages bring in the views, and they have oodles of honeymoon appeal (they also have little bunk rooms if you're bringing the kids). Hidden across the valley is the Eco Suite, a gorgeous secluded cabin that's perfect for romance.
Some bedrooms have fireplaces and each of the houses, apart from Casa do Relogio, has a wood-burning stove: it can get very cold up here in winter. Bathrooms have tubs (some hydro-massage) and/showers and fragrant Damana toiletries.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Bathrobes
- Central heating
- Cots available
- DVD player
- Fireplace
- Hairdryer
- Toiletries
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
It's a real treat to eat so well in such a remote corner of the country. By day, tuck into light lunches with organic vegetables from the garden on the sunny terrace at View Day Restaurant, located next to the pool.
Once the sun goes down, dozens of candles are lit (candelabras inside, lanterns in the garden) and tables are dressed in thick linen cloths; the ambiance is very romantic. Dinners follow a daily changing 4-course menu and the house wines included in the price are from the Douro; all are excellent. There's also a wine list if you fancy picking out a more special bottle. We started with homemade olive bread, followed by scrummy sauteed mushrooms with bacon and an egg yolk. Partridge and leek gratin was unusual and delicious, and there was a choice of several different homemade desserts.
The buffet breakfasts are every bit as special, and served as late as you like. There are home-baked breads and treats, beautiful fresh juices, and delicious homemade jams (the honeyed greengage is amazing). Although you can order cooked options, we didn't bother, instead filling up on gingerbread and goji berry granolas with yoghurt and fresh mango.
Self-catering wise, the rooms and houses have a mix of kitchenettes and shared kitchens. The kitchenettes are smaller, with basic facilities - microwave, oven, stovetop, a couple of pans, a fridge and a full set of crockery. Kitchens have all this plus a dishwasher, kettle, coffee maker, and more space. Each house has a table in its living room where you can sit and eat, and you can shop for groceries in Meda, 7km away. There are a couple of restaurants in Meda, should you want a change of scene.
Features include:
- Bar
- Fridge
- Kids' meals
- Restaurant
- Room service
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Chill by the pool, dip in the Jacuzzi, relax in the open-air Sunset Lounge, or stargaze in the Secret Spots daybed area; this place is all about indulgent R&R
- The spa is simply amazing; you can easily spend a whole day in its relaxed living areas (sofas, coffee-table books), treatment rooms, panoramic sauna, Turkish bath and exercise pool
- Don't miss the castle, one of the highlights of our stay. CdC guests get free entry, and we had the incredible ruins all to ourselves as the sun set; magical
- Have a game of tennis or get your hiking boots on; there are walking trails leading out of the village
- Visit the stunning Côa Valley Archaeological Museum and Park (see Author Tip), home to some of the world's most remarkable rock paintings
- Take a boat trip on the Douro from nearby Pocinho: there's no better way to see the river and many trips offer lunch on board as well as port tastings
- Borrow a mountain bike and follow a network of tracks and quiet roads out from Marialva
- Visit the historic hilltop towns of Almeida, Castelo Mendo, Castelo Rodrigo and Linhares
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Mountain biking
- Museums / galleries
- Swimming
- Tennis
Kids
Casas do Coro is well set up for families, though there's not masses for them to do on-site. Parents with babies would find the kitchenettes (and microwaves) a real boon, and older kids would enjoy the pool, exploring the village and castle, and would love the interactive sections of the Côa museum.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
All rooms can accommodate extra beds and cots. Superior Junior Suite has a bunk room for children. Some cottages have hydro-massage baths, others have normal baths.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Babysitting:
By arrangement
Baby listening:
Baby monitors will stretch from some rooms/houses to the restaurant, but not all. Please ask for a room nearby if you plan to leave the little'un as walls are very thick, and distances are big.
Baby equipment:
- Cots
- High chairs
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
All the houses have kitchens or kitchenettes with microwaves, hobs and fridges (if you're booking 1 room in a shared house, check you will have access to a kitchen/ette if you need one; we didn't get one when we stayed with our toddler as there was a group booking in the rest of the house, and it made life tricky). The nearest grocery shop is a short drive away in Meda; there isn't one in the village.
Kids Activities on site:
- Swimming pool (unheated)
- Lawns
- DVD player
Kids Activities nearby:
- Castle
- Coa Valley Archaeological Museum and Park
- Mountain bike trails (borrow from the cottages)
- Boat trips on the Douro
Families Should Know:
The pool is not heated. Bring children's DVDs with you. It's a long drive from Lisbon or Porto airports. Kids need to be well supervised, with hazards like unprotected drops (many), an unfenced pool, hot tub and open fires in winter
Distances:
- Airport: 2.5 hours (Porto), 4.5 hours (Lisbon)
- Hospital: 1 hour
- Shop: 15 minutes' drive
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Casas do Coro is at the eastern end of the Beiras, close to the border with Spain. Lisbon is 350km distant - about a 4.5-hour drive - whilst Porto is about 230km away, some 2.5 hours by car. Salamanca in Spain can be reached in about the same time whilst Madrid is a little under 5 hours away.
By Air
Oporto (Porto) is the closest airport, though some fly into Lisbon.
From the Airport
There are no airport transfers available, and given the lack of public transport in the area a car is essential, especially if you wish to visit the historic fortified villages of this fascinating area and take in the rock paintings of the Foz Côa Park, which are well off the beaten track.
By Car
See our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Oporto (Porto) 230.0 km OPO
- Lisbon 350.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 180.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km
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