Hotel El Manantial del Silencio

Rooms

You might well think you’ve stumbled upon an old monastery, or a colonial staging post, lovingly restored. The beauty of El Manantial’s design is that, despite being just 15 years old, its architecture retains the key hallmarks of local traditions: white washed adobe, high ceilings made of cane, simple windows, stone floors and white interior walls.

The décor in the bedrooms makes the most of these simple features and enhances the setting. The effect is so harmonious it’s magical. The view of vivid red mountain from your window is framed by tall wooden shutters and wafting white muslin curtains from a wrought iron pole. Inside, simple dark wooden furniture sets off a pristine white armchair; the burnt wood headboard on the bed gives elegance to simple neutral linen bed coverings and Egyptian cotton sheets. There are duvets (unusually for Argentina) and a selection of pillows. The only picture on the walls is like treasure: a reproduction Cuzqueño school painting from the amazing series of angels in battledress in Uquía church.

There’s a colonial arch to an ample wardrobe area and the bathroom, where granite and modern white ceramics are softened by a flower-painted mirror frame and a locally woven barracán bag concealing the hairdryer. Everything you need is here and simple toiletries are provided, though there’s nothing ostentatious. There are phones, a safe, WiFi and heating, but no television (though there’s one downstairs), and this adds to the serene feel.

The hotel's 1 suite sits on the upper floor. Its simple styling matches that in the bedrooms, but it has the added luxuries of a Jacuzzi, a canopied bed and a private sitting room, all with direct views of the Cerro de Siete Colores.

Also available is a separate self-contained house, set 20m away from reception. With 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a TV room and a living area, it's ideal for families or groups. Its windows look out over the garden, with glimpses of the mountians beyond.

Whichevere option you choose, you’ll sleep deeply in the quiet atmosphere of the silent village at night, and somehow the proximity of the mountains casts a special spell.

Features include:

• Hairdryer
• Safe box

Eating

The huge dining room is in 2 parts: have breakfast by wide floor-to-ceiling windows, where sunlight pours in, with lovely views of the pool and the mountains to the back of the hotel. Dine in the more intimate part of the room, where red curtains and vivid embroidered wall hangings, oversized ceramic plates and hanging candle holders bring an exotic flavour to the white walls and stone floors. Rustic dark wood chairs are given elegant treatment with individual barracán woven seats, and the effect is Spanish colonial with contemporary flair.

Breakfasts are very satisfying: choose from an extensive array laid out on the side table. There are fresh fruit juices, fruit salads, yoghurt, cereals, hams, cheeses, pastries, bread to toast and delicious homemade jams. Try the dulce de membrillo (quince jam) and the delicious local goats cheese. Tea is the usual bag-in-a-cup scenario and coffee is ready prepared in flasks, but hot chocolate submarinos will delight the children.

Lunch and dinner are surprisingly lavish, given the remoteness of the setting. Chef Sergio Latorre was invited to Italy’s worldwide Slow Food event to demonstrate how he’s using traditional local ingredients such as quinoa and llama, and giving them a contemporary treatment in delicate concoctions which would hold their own in any Buenos Aires restaurant. Cheerful service from the delightful Nora makes you feel very welcome, and children can be catered for with special dishes.

Sit in the spacious lounge area on huge sofas (with a roaring fire if it’s winter) for a drink before dinner or a coffee afterwards. There’s a superb wine list, and the puddings are excellent too. Far from being monastic, El Manantial's restaurant indulges the stomach as much as its scenery indulges the eye.

Features include:

• Bar
• Restaurant
• Restaurants nearby
• Room service
• Vegetarian options

Activities

• Wander around Purmamarca village absorbing local life: simple agriculture, adobe buildings and kids playing in the school playground
  
  
• Go shopping for excellent handicrafts. Don’t bother with the market on the main plaza, since it largely sells mass-produced Bolivian goods, but go instead to Regionales el Cardón, the large shop facing the church, where you can buy excellent weavings, silver and wooden bowls, cowhide-covered and carved pots, and all manner of things made out of prized local cactus wood. The prices are reasonable and there’s no need to barter
  
  
• Pop into the local church, Iglesia Santa Rosa de Lima. Typical of the traditional colonial churches in the Quebrada, it has squat white walls and a single bell tower. Inside, the roof and pulpit of cactus wood are beautifully time-darkened, and - once your eyes adjust - you’ll find a series of lovely paintings depicting the life of Santa Rosa. Outside the algarrobo tree is said to be over a thousand years old
  
  
• The Cerro de Siete Colores offers great walking. From the southwestern corner of the plaza, there's a 2-hour circular route around the back of the hill, with wonderfully eroded terracotta rocks set off by the lush greenery of irrigated fields. Ask anyone for the Circuito Los Colorados
  
  
• Or borrow bicycles from the hotel and explore the red hills and green valleys on 2 wheels
  
  
• 90 minutes’ drive up the spectacular Cuesta de Lipán, you’ll be amazed by limitless shimmering salt flats. Hire a car from Salta or Jujuy at the start of your trip to make the most of these and other delights in the area, or ask for a trip from reception in the hotel (book in advance). The salt flats are stunning at midday, when the sky is an unbelievably blue, and even more so at sunset
  
  
• Purmamarca is the best base for exploring the whole Quebrada de Humahuaca. Don’t miss the Pucará at Tilcara, or the church with its paintings in Uquía.
  
  
• Allow time in your schedule to swim, lie around reading or do nothing: this is the wellspring of silence, after all!

Activities on site or nearby include:

• Birdwatching
• Cycling
• Hiking
• Historical sites
• Museums / galleries
• Shopping / markets
• Swimming
• Traditional cultures
• Trekking

Kids

Children will love the hotel's wide open spaces, the simple garden and the pool. There are bikes to hire for exploring the hills and the salt flats are magical expanses for kids.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)

Family friendly accommodation:

There's a self-contained house 20m from reception, which has two bedrooms and two bathrooms, and can take a couple of extra beds. Otherwise baby cots can be added to all other rooms

Cots Available

Distances:

• Airport: 1 hour (Jujuy)
• Shops: 1 hour (Jujuy)

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

Hotel El Manantial del Silencio is set in the tranquil village of Purmamarca, in the stunning mountains of Argentina's Jujuy Province. Purmamarca is the first town you come to in the Quebrada de Humahuaca valley, heading north from the provincial capital, Jujuy, on Ruta 9. You're close to the Chilean and Bolivian borders, and 1,500km from Buenos Aires.

By Air:
Jujuy (65km away) and Salta (185km away) are the nearest airports. Both are served by domestic flights from Buenos Aires' Jorge Newbery Airport. If you're arriving into Buenos Aires from abroad, you'll fly into Ezeiza International Airport and will need to take a taxi or a shuttle bus to Jorge Newbery for your internal connection. For a list of airlines serving these airports click on the links below.

From the Airport:
The hotel can provide a transfer from Jujuy.

By Bus:
Buses run up and down the Quebrada de Humahuaca, leaving frequently from Jujuy’s bus terminal. If you're travelling from other cities within Argentina, you can reach Jujuy by long-distance bus - not as uncomfortable as it sounds if you book a reclining cama or a flat-bed cama completa seat.

By Car:
Hiring a car in Salta or Jujuy is the best way to explore this spectacular area and make the most of its landscapes and charming villages - see our car rental recommendations. Make sure you carry water and fill up with petrol frequently, since distances are longer than you think. It’s a good idea to buy a map at a service station.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.

More on getting to Argentina and getting around.