Kapsaliana Village Hotel

Kapsaliana, Crete, Greece
Book from GBP Book from £104 per night

A gorgeous rural hideaway created out of a 17th-century Cretan hamlet, with fab restaurant, cocktail bar and stunning sea views

A gorgeous rural hideaway created out of a 17th-century Cretan hamlet, with fab restaurant, cocktail bar and stunning sea views

Once, Kapsaliana’s sole purpose was to produce olive oil for a peaceful Cretan monastery - now it provides a haven for those who seek peace and an escape from the crowds. The village’s idyllic hilltop setting hasn’t changed, nor its cobblestone streets and terracotta roofs, but Myron Toupoyannis, the Greek architect-owner, has spent decades painstakingly transforming the crumbling buildings into 25 boutique rooms and suites. Rundown millers' cottages are now rustic-chic bedrooms with creamy stone walls, hefty wood furniture and turquoise tiled showers. The olive mill itself has been sensitively maintained with the original stone wheels and huge earthen pots still in-situ, now serving as a museum. Designed to preserve history and welcome new friends, Kapsaliana is a beautiful blend of past and present.

Sun-drenched terraces look across myrtle trees to the ocean; the air is fragrant with jasmine, lemon and lavender. Curious children can look for lizards in the village’s nooks and crannies, while couples like to laze by the pool and drink in the intoxicating view. No one has to go far for food - the organic restaurant serves up delicious Cretan dishes using vegetables from the garden. The rugged landscape and surrounding mountain trails invite invigorating walks, and sandy beaches are a short drive away. This is an authentic taste of rural life, and it blew us away. 

Highs

  • The peaceful hillside location in Crete's rural north: tucked amongst olive groves with far-reaching views yet within easy reach of beaches
  • Well priced for somewhere utterly unique - the Greek government cites Kapsaliana as a hotel of ‘significant cultural importance’
  • Delicious Cretan food with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients
  • Helpful staff will drive guests to the historic Arkadi Monastery and provide packed breakfasts for early flyers
  • Simply relaxing by the beautiful pool - lunch, light snacks and drinks are available at the pool bar during the day, so there is no need to move!

Lows

  • The ground-level rooms without terraces are a bit dark with not-so-private outdoor spaces
  • The rooms behind the restaurant are located in the 3 new buildings, and as result lack the character of the original houses
  • There are a couple of nearby tavernas but most restaurants are a drive away
  • After a leisurely dinner, guests tend to go straight to bed; the atmosphere may be a bit too tranquil for some - but perfect for others
  • You'll need to hire a car to go off exploring, but it's only a 10-minute drive to the nearest sandy beach

Best time to go

Spring is a particularly lovely time to visit: wildflowers bring the landscape to life and Easter celebrations give an insight into local traditions. Warm, uncrowded autumn days are the time for local harvests of grapes, raki and olive oil. Summer offers plenty of hot sunshine, ideal for lounging by the pool. Winter - aside from the lively Carnival - is a tranquil time for cosy nights by the lounge fireplace. Kapsaliana usually closes for a month in November-December.

Our top tips

The nearby Arkadi Monastery is fascinating and beautiful. It's a 14th-century symbol of Crete's independence from the Ottoman Empire, and an absolute must see. Kapsaliana was once part of the monastery estate, used for producing olive oil. Ask staff to drop you off, then walk the 4km back to the hotel.

Great for...

Eco
Family
Great Outdoors
Romantic
  • Boutique Hotel
  • 25 rooms
  • Restaurant and bars open daily
  • All ages welcome
  • Closed: 1st November - 23rd March
  • Outdoor Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car recommended
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Laundry Service
  • Daily housekeeping
Room: Exclusive Superior Double with Terrace and Sea View – Pergola

Rooms

Named after constellations, rooms at Kapsaliana are a starry lot. They are simple in design, painted in muted colours in order to stay sympathetic to the history of the village.

We recommend those in the old building as they're full of original character - stone arches, thick wooden beams, open fireplaces. On our most recent visit, we stayed in Sirius, a spacious Historic Junior Suite with a supremely comfortable bed and a separate cosy living room.

For those with small children, the Superior Suite, Pleiades, has an enclosed ground-floor patio providing extra space and a plunge pool. In the same garden enclave, Superior Doubles Libra, Luna and Berenices look out across the verdant valley.

Andromeda (Superior Junior Suite with Terrace and Mezzanine) has a charming mezzanine bedroom, while Stone House Suite Corona Borealis come complete with its very own Cretan oven and private pool. We particularly liked the look of the hotel's grandest suite, the Historic Olive Mill Suite, with a unique lead-glass floor built over the original brickwork of the olive oil factory. 

Elia (Two Bedroom Suite Terrace), Selini (Executive Suite Terrace) and Lupus (Classic Double with Terrace) sleep 2-4 and wrap around a shared pool, but each have their own outdoor seating area. Their communal space and close proximity to each other make them a great choice for friends or a few couples travelling together. They are newer buildings so perhaps lack the charm of the original stone hamlet, but we thought they were cool and comfy, and their more contemporary style may be a preference for some.

Bathrooms throughout are smart affairs, with rain showers, robes and Apivita toiletries.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Central heating
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Hairdryer
  • In-room treatments available
  • Minibar
  • Mosquito net
  • Safe box
  • Toiletries
  • TV
  • WiFi

Eating

The buffet breakfast is a treat at Kapsaliana: an abundant spread of fresh fruit, home-baked bread, silky-smooth Greek yoghurt, deli meats and Cretan ricotta cheese. You can pay extra for cooked options. It's served in the restaurant's pretty courtyard, scented by jasmine flowers and surrounded by olive trees, until a very civilised 11am.

Light lunches incorporating fresh, local ingredients can be eaten by the pool or at the restaurant. Staff at the poolside bar, Levanda, are ready to serve you a chilled glass of wine from 1pm to 7pm, then pootle up to the Lemonies cocktail bar for a well-deserved sundowner or nightcap. 

All the food is organic and vegetables are grown on-site. Dinner is a fine-dining affair in their fabulous restaurant Elaia, based on Mediterranean and Cretan flavours. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal of fresh-off-the-boat sea bass with roasted veggies picked from the garden. There are daily changing specials, a degustation menu and a range of crisp Greek wines to pair with each dish.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Breakfast
  • Restaurant
  • Room service
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Explore the village - stroll to the charming local church or the artefact-filled museum in the 250-year-old olive mill
  • Head down to Panormos' sandy beach and try your hand at different water sports
  • A 30-minute drive away, the village of Margarites has a long tradition of ceramic arts. Visit late in the afternoon when the tour buses have left
  • Trek along the wooded Platania Gorge to the cave church of St Anthony or through the rocky maze of waterfalls in the magnificent Patsos Gorge
  • Walk the flower-filled Amari Valley or perhaps join a guided botanical or bird-spotting tour
  • Kayak the coast – paddle by the coves of the south coast (single or tandem kayaks) and finish with lunch in a taverna by the sea
  • Head to Rethymnon (25-minute drive), a well-preserved Venetian town with a colourful harbour, broad sandy beaches and a hilltop fortress
  • Visit the Museum of Ancient Eleutherna (10km) for an insight into Greek society from 3000 BC
  • Back at the hotel, try olive oil tasting, a cold process soap-making course, or enjoy a movie night at the outdoor cinema (summer only)

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Birdwatching
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Horse riding
  • Kayaking
  • Museums / galleries
  • Plantlife / flora
  • Shopping / markets
  • Spa treatments
  • Swimming
  • Trekking
  • Well being
  • Yoga

Kids

Children of all ages are welcome and the rooms are well set up to accommodate families. However, the overall ambiance of the property is tranquil and relaxing, so you may feel uncomfortable with noisy children, particularly by the pool and at dinner. There's plenty of outdoor space, though nothing specific in the way of children's facilities, and teenagers might find it a little quiet.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

Izar and Altair (Classic Doubles with Terraces) can be booked together to form a family suite (both can be twinned). Classic Single room, Cygnus, would suit a teenager or grandparent. The Superior Suite with Plunge Pool (Pleiades) is ideal for families with young children because of the outdoor enclosed space. All rooms can fit a baby cot.

Families Should Know:

The restaurant is open daily for breakfast and dinner, and snack lunches are available to order by the pool.

Distances:

  • Airport: 79km (Heraklion)
  • Beach: 5km (Stavromenos and Geropotamos)
  • Hospital: 18km (Rethymnon)
Kid Friendly:

Location

The hotel is in the hamlet of Kapsaliana in northern Crete, 8km from the coast and 18km from Rethymnon (Rethimno) town.

By Air:
Fly into Heraklion (79km / 1 hour) or Chania (86km / 1 hour).

By Sea:
Daily overnight ferries from Athens (Piraeus) to Chania (Souda) and Heraklion.

From the Airport or Port
Kapsaliana can organise a transfer from either city, but we'd recommend hiring a car. You can park for free at the hotel.

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.

Airports:

  • Heraklion 79.0 km HER
  • Chania 86.0 km CHQ

Other:

  • Beach 5.0 km
  • Shops 18.0 km
  • Restaurant 1.0 km

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Our guests' ratings...

Based on 5 independent reviews from i-escape guests

10/10
Room
9/10
Food
9/10
Service
9/10
Value
9/10
Overall

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Rates for Kapsaliana Village Hotel

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