Lou Calen

Cotignac, Provence, France
Book from GBP Book from £163 per night

A rustic-luxe retreat in a lush country estate, with 36 swoon-worthy rooms set in historic houses, a garden restaurant and a heavenly tree-lined pool

A rustic-luxe retreat in a lush country estate, with 36 swoon-worthy rooms set in historic houses, a garden restaurant and a heavenly tree-lined pool

Tucked away in high Provence is this glorious, three-hectare country estate. Within it, set among olive groves, are 36 uber-chic rooms and suites. Each one is unique, some with a history dating back to the early 1800s. Choose a room in the lovingly restored, original stone houses (most have private terraces) spread through the garden from the hilltop down to the village square, or splurge on a three-storey, tower-like suite with views over the cliff.

The gardens are vast, tranquil and beautifully well-kept, we spent hours moving from hidden corner to hidden corner with a book and coffee (sometimes wine), watching the light change over Provence’s rolling hills. A large heated pool sparkles somewhere among the trees, there's a separate one for families too. After a morning exploring picturesque Cotignac (frequently awarded prettiest village in France), visiting its ancient cliff-side houses, cave dwellings and art studio-lined streets, we had the tough choice to make between restaurants, each one another successful restoration project undertaken by the owners. We chose the fine-dining option; here a top-rated chef works his magic using produce plucked from the kitchen garden, and you are able to enjoy course after course in private, homely dining rooms that are majestically French.

Spend days reclining on a sunny pool lounger or sampling beer at the hotel microbrewery (yep, it has one of those too). We managed (with difficulty!) to drag ourselves away from this sanctuary to discover Provence's spectacular scenery – from mountain lakes and hidden waterfalls to historic hilltop towns and ancient vineyards – content with the knowledge we’d be cosying up in our sumptuous suite after a session in the steam shower. Bliss.

Highs

  • The picturesque, nature-rich country estate is quite the setting, with striking cliffs on one side, and Provence’s rolling hills on the other
  • We loved the classic-yet-chic Provencal country styling, with modern art on the walls and a steam shower in the bathroom
  • Brilliant workshops and events if you get idle hands, or a choice of tree-lined pools if you want to relax
  • A top location: in the heart of a charming Provencal village, bustling with art stores, great eateries and live-music venues
  • Lunch at Jardin Secret was a treat – three courses made with ingredients sourced from within a 35km radius – each course light and bursting with flavour; no wonder it's been awarded a Green Michelin Star

Lows

  • The main restaurant is closed for lunch and dinner on Weds & Thurs, and dinner on Sunday, but the bistro is open everyday
  • The pools aren't open in the winter, but you're unlikely to miss them
  • No spa yet, but there are plans for one (and a gym) in the near future, and massages can be arranged
  • Finding the place is a challenge – bring detailed directions!

Best time to go

From April to June, and September to October, the climate is warm and the sights are less busy. Summers (July to August) are hot and busy in this region. That said, Lou Calen is a haven away from the masses.

Our top tips

Book onto one of the creative workshops, led by local artisans and held regularly (usually on weekends). This might be charcoal drawing or watercolour painting, clay or wood sculpting, or talks by renowned authors in the bookstore.

Great for...

Eco
Family
Foodie
Great Outdoors
Romantic
  • Boutique hotel
  • 36 rooms
  • Restaurants and bars (varying opening hours)
  • All ages welcome
  • Open all year
  • Heated Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Beach nearby
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car recommended
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
  • Tennis Court
  • Bicycles Available
Room:

Rooms

The 36 rooms and suites are spread across the three-hectare estate and are split into two areas: the main hotel and the mico zone (mico is short for micocoulier, a tree that grows in abundance in the gardens); the restaurant separates the two.

Those in the mico zone are a little more secluded, but wherever you stay, you'll be among beautiful surroundings, and you can expect garden views and a private terrace with most rooms. The beautiful styling incorporates wood and stone, and the vibe is classic Provencal chic. Bathrooms are sleek with feature tiling, some rooms even feature Japanese toilets and steam showers. There are no TVs in the rooms, but there are in-room tablets and radios that connect to bluetooth.

At the upper end of the scale, the Trompine Suites have a luxury self-catering vibe: some have kitchens and cosy living areas with sofabeds – great for small families or larger groups. We stayed in one of these (without a kitchen) and loved how restorative the spaces were. For maximum wow factor, book the Signature Suite (mico zone), set in an impressive tower-like structure and spread over three floors. They had us at 'cliff views' and 'hammam shower'.

Features include:

  • Air conditioning
  • Bathrobes
  • Coffee / tea making
  • Cots available
  • Fan
  • Hairdryer
  • Minibar
  • Mosquito net
  • Safe box
  • Toiletries
  • WiFi

Eating

A continental breakfast is served on the shaded terrace or cosy communal living room. Produce is plucked from the garden or purchased from local markets, so expect the freshest ingredients on your plate – we feasted on cheeses, croissants and fruits, as well as homemade kiwi jam, every morning.

Stroll across the grounds to the hotel restaurant, Jardin Secret. You'll find it nestled in the hills, surrounded by picture-postcard olive grove views. It's housed in one of the estate’s original 200-year-old buildings. Meals here are a fine-dining affair (they've rightly won a Green Michelin Star), but the energy is very laidback. The menu is set, with dishes changing daily - let them know in advance if you have dietary requirements. In a cosy private room with a fireplace and a wall of vinyl, we ate homemade gnocchi with greens from the garden, grilled monkfish with potatoes, and Provencal mushrooms, and a light Mille Feuille with vanilla for dessert. Meals are served Friday to Tuesday (excluding Sunday evening). Luckily the lovely Lou Calen Bistro, a relaxed eatery with a beautiful patio garden, is open every day for lunch and dinner.

There are other excellent food options in the village and surrounds (we enjoyed dinner at Le Clos des Vignes). Picotte comes especially recommended. Back at Lou Calen, you've a choice of bars depending on your preferred nightcap: La Tuf Brewpub for beers brewed onsite, or O'Fadoli Pastis Bar for an excellent array of the traditional French spirit.

Features include:

  • Bar
  • Coffee maker
  • Kids' meals
  • Restaurant
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Vegetarian options
Eating:
Activity:

Activities

  • Spend days swimming in the tranquil, tree-lined pools or snoozing on a sun lounger
  • This is the perfect spot for unwinding. Make the most of the space and play tennis, or join a yoga class
  • Ask if there are any workshops and retreats during your stay – such as truffle hunting, watercolour painting or cooking classes with Hugette, the former owner of Lou Calen (we sampled her food, and wow!)
  • Visit the friendly on-site microbrewery, La TUF, and sample unique, seasonal beers. Or take part in a brewing workshop. Games nights take place here too, as do live music gigs
  • Potter the streets of Cotignac, where there is art to see, shops to explore and cafes to people-watch from. The hotel can arrange a tour with an English-speaking guide, so you can really get under the skin of the village. Don’t miss the weekly market on a Tuesday
  • Swim in the aquamarine waters of Lac de Sainte Croix (45 mins) before taking a kayak or canoe through the dramatic Verdon Gorge
  • Discover the fascinating Troglodyte caves of Villecroze, which date back to the Middle Ages (19km/25 mins)
  • Rent an electric bike and explore the countryside
  • Travel a little further to the teeny village of Sillans la Cascade (10 mins). A fairly short (sometimes slippy) hike takes you to an incredible, clear-blue, 40m-high waterfall. Note that sadly you can't swim in the waterfall pool

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Cycling
  • Historical sites
  • Hot tub
  • Shopping / markets
  • Spa treatments
  • Swimming
  • Tennis
  • Wine tasting
  • Yoga

Kids

Children of all ages are welcome here and there's a dedicated pool for families plus a lagoon like splash pool for smaller ones. There’s lots of outdoor space to spread out and explore in. Younger ones will love the garden treasure hunts. You can even arrange a fun in-room tipi for an extra fee. The restaurant offers a children’s menu and high chairs.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The Cassole rooms, with their private terraces and garden views, can interconnect. The Sarrasine Suites come with a mezzanine offering a little second bed. Bigger families should opt for a Family Suite, which sleeps up to 6 in two double bedrooms and a bunk room, plus it has a kitchen and lots of space to relax. The Trompine and Signature Suites also have a living area and kitchenette and sleep up to 4 guests.

Cots Available

Baby equipment:

  • Baby cots
  • High chairs

Remember  baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking

Children's meals:

Kids menu

Kids Activities on site:

  • Swimming pool for families
  • Petanque
  • Billiards

Kids Activities nearby:

  • Canoeing on the Argens river
  • Electric boat on Sainte Croix lake
  • Rent e-bikes and explore
  • Sillans and its waterfall

Families Should Know:

The main pool is adult only

Distances:

  • Airport: 1hr15m
  • Hospital: 30 minutes
  • Shops: 2 minutes
Kid Friendly:

Location

Lou Calen is a three-hectare country estate in Cotignac, a pretty village in central Provence.

By Air:
Fly into Nice or Marseille (70-80 mins/100km).

By Train:
Alight at Aix en Provence or Marseille.

From the Airport:
The easiest option is to drive. Car rentals are available from both airports; check out our car rental recommendations. It is about 1hr15m drive from Nice or Marseille airports, and a 1hr drive from Aix en Provence or Marseille railway stations.

Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.

Airports:

  • Nice Côte d'Azur Airport 118.0 km NCE
  • Marseille Provence Airport 100.0 km MRS

Other:

  • Beach 40.0 km
  • Shops 0.2 km
  • Restaurant 0.2 km

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Our guests' ratings...

Based on 11 independent reviews from i-escape guests

9/10
Room
9/10
Food
9/10
Service
9/10
Value
9/10
Overall

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Rates for Lou Calen

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