Ocean views and infinity pools - so far, so Bali. Yet Munduk Moding dances to the beat of its own drum: a laid-back eco-lodge in the midst of a working coffee plantation, with a gourmet restaurant and pools cantilevered over jungle-clad ravines. Up here in the hills above the peaceful north coast, they do things a little differently.
You may not see your room at first: the suites and villas (with 1-5 bedrooms) are scattered apart for privacy and buried deep in greenery. Temperatures are cooler at this remote hill station, and sometimes it’s swaddled in will-o'-the-wisp clouds; on a clear day, though, the views sweep down the plunging landscape to the Java Sea below. Those who venture to northern Bali are already an adventurous crowd and, with the local village heavily involved and the plantation largely self-sufficient (the marigold garlands, fruit and the coffee at breakfast are all grown on site), this is a taster of the island before mass tourism. Couples seeking seclusion, families after jungle thrills, singles on retreat - there’s quite literally room for all.
Highs
- Beautiful landscapes: walk through the plantation, hike through monkey-filled forest, horse-ride to lakes
- A superb restaurant - the tasting menus are outstanding
- Two incredible infinity pools that melt into the sky; many villas have private pools and hot tubs, too
- Genuine authenticity: it's run hand-in-hand with the nearby village and hosts dance performances by local kids
- Massages and treatments to help you unwind; sessions with a traditional healer can be arranged, too
Lows
- The sprawling, 12-acre site means getting to the pool and restaurant can involve relatively lengthy, hilly walks
- There are free daytime shuttles for excursions, but the remote location means you’re far from the action
- Eating in-house is really the only viable option
- Quite a distance from the coast but you're here to be here and experience a different side of Bali
- The weather’s cooler in the hills, and clouds and rain are always a possibility
Best time to go
July to September is peak season in Bali, and with cooler temperatures here than on the coast, the weather is ideal. October to April is rainy season - expect heavy showers and mist-swathed hills (though this lends a certain romance). Our preference would be for the shoulder season (we visited in May), when the island is less crowded and the weather is largely sunny. The coffee harvest takes place in July and August, and guest participation is encouraged.
Our top tips
Don’t miss the Sunday night traditional dance recitals. Cheesy as they may sound, the hotel is heavily involved in the local community (it provides dance and martial arts lessons for the school) and the performers are beaming kids proudly displaying their moves.
- Boutique Hotel
- 37 suites and villas (for 2-15)
- Restaurant & bar (open daily)
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Heated Pool
- Spa
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Tennis Court
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
The self-contained Villas and Suites are spread out across 4 acres of the plantation, so expect lots of privacy. The style is comfortable but simple: unembellished wooden furniture, marble bathrooms and mosquito nets over kingsize beds. The focus is firmly on the outside - bathrooms (all with tubs and showers) have skylights, and walls of glass are tickled by lush foliage. There is no air con but it is breezy up here so you don't need it.
Every villa and suite is different, but all have spectacular views over rice paddies, flower meadows and jungle to the distant sea. We loved our 1-Bedroom Villa with Horizontal Pool for its complete seclusion (and its pool and hot tub!), but we were also taken with the entry-level Luxury Suites - they’re spacious and awash with sunlight, and their rainforest-facing terraces feel completely private, despite them sitting in a block. For families and groups, there's the 2-Bedroom Pool Villa with Jacuzzi or Penthouse Suite with 2 ensuite bedrooms (some twins) plus glass-walled living areas.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Cots available
- Hairdryer
- Minibar
- Mosquito net
- Safe box
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
The restaurant’s name, MiMPi, means 'dream' in Balinese and, while the simple décor (white stone walls and wooden furniture) verges on the plain, the food lives up to the name - and then some. Most produce is grown on the plantation, and you can taste it - even the lettuce in our beetroot salad was an education in just how juicy a fresh leaf can be.
Lunch, taken with the glass doors open onto the infinity pool and Java Sea, is a healthy feast of fruit juices and local favourites such as nasi goreng. Or you can grab a pizza from the wood-burning pizza oven by the 15m infinity pool. Make sure you save space for the tasting menus at dinner, though (a la carte also available). The Balinese spread, in particular, is superlative - our bebek gurih (a local take on Peking duck) and fish satay on lemongrass skewers were perfectly flavoured and beautifully presented.
For more typical Balinese fare, there's also Warung Bongkot, located in the second pool area. Specialty lunches and dinners are served here, and the emphasis is on typical North Bali cuisine - lots of fresh vegetables and spicy sambals, intended for sharing.
For breakfast, you’ve a choice of Balinese, Indonesian or Western menus. Drinks and snacks are available from the Sunset Bar overlooking the pool throughout the day - and, of course, the home-roasted coffee is on tap.
Features include:
- Bar
- Coffee maker
- Kids' meals
- Organic produce
- Restaurant
Activities
- Explore the plantation - either solo, by foot or bicycle, or on one of the daily tours. Routes vary from an easy loop around coffee, clove, chocolate and banana plants - the air scented by hortensia flowers and orchids - to more challenging hikes across the hills to a monkey-filled rainforest a mile away
- Book a session with a traditional healer - Pak Ketut Suwitra, the local balian, is known throughout the island for his healing touch. He’ll treat you in your villa or the treatment room; massages and scrubs are available, too
- Take the free daytime shuttle to Munduk, with its waterfall deep within the rainforest, or Bedugul, a serene lake with botanical gardens
- Work off those tasting menus with a day trek to Buyan and Tamblingan Lake, formed from a pre-historic caldera. You'll journey through macaque-filled rainforests and canoe across to Gubug temple
- You can also reach Tamblingan on the resort’s horses; guided rides are easily arranged
- As are dolphin-watching tours down on the coast
- Back at the hotel, hit the tennis court or just sit back with a book and soak up the views
- The hotel offers a complimentary activities programme, giving an insight to the culture and nature of Bali (coffee processing, kite making etc)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Cycling
- Dolphin watching
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Horse riding
- Kayaking
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Swimming
- Tennis
- Traditional cultures
- Trekking
- Well being
- Wildlife
Kids
Families are welcome: the accommodation has plenty of space, and child-friendly activities (kite making, movies, Balinese dress-up) are laid on daily. Just bear in mind that this is a remote, rural resort, and older kids might get bored. The atmosphere is quiet and laid-back, and during our stay the majority of guests were couples or groups of adults.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
All accommodation can fit a baby cot or rollaway bed. Families are encouraged to book the 2-Bedroom Pool Villa with Jacuzzi (sleeping 4) or the Penthouse Suite (sleeping 4 + 2 kids on sofabeds), though their infinity pools means young ones need supervision.
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available
Babysitting:
Available on request
Baby equipment:
- Baby cots
- High chairs
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Children's meals:
The restaurant has a kids’ menu
Kids Activities on site:
- Plantation walks
- Games room and movies
- Kite making
- Dance performances on Sunday evenings
- Tennis
Kids Activities nearby:
- Horse riding through the jungle
- Visits to waterfalls and lakes
Families Should Know:
The site is hilly with plunging drops, so keep an eye on roving little ones
Distances:
- Airport: 2.5 hours
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Munduk Moding Plantation is located in the hills of northern Bali, overlooking the distant coast and the Java Sea. The nearest village is Gobleg (5km away).
By Air:
Bali’s Denpasar Ngurah Rai airport (80km) is served by many international airlines - click on the links below for a list. You can also fly to Jakarta or Singapore and connect from there.
The hotel can arrange transfers from the airport, and from Ubud if you’re coming from there. We suggest taking this option, as there are no easy public transport links and we don’t recommend hiring a car. The journey from the airport takes around 2.5 hours.
Detailed directions will be provided when you confirm a booking through i-escape.com. 
More on getting to Bali and getting around
Airports:
- Bali Denpasar Ngurah Rai International 82.0 km DPS
Other:
- Beach 14.0 km
- Shops 0.5 km
- Restaurant 5.0 km