Philipkutty's Farm
Kottayam, Cochin & the Backwaters, India
They call it a 'homestay' and are delighted to show you around the 45-acre working farm, where mango, nutmeg and coconut trees thrive alongside bean, pepper and banana plantations. They'll also cook for you, and each meal is a huge home-cooked feast featuring much of what you'll see growing in the gardens. But if you’re worried about privacy, rest assured that your waterfront cottage is completely independent, furnished with antiques and set on the edge of a peaceful waterway (the family live in their own house nearby). All have enough room to create a little family home of your own.
Highs
- A very personal insight into the Keralan way of life; you'll feel like you're living here rather than visiting
- Nightly rates include fantastic home-cooked feasts. Their recipes are so good that Rick Stein came to visit and guests can also request cooking lessons
- Floating, by punt-powered boat, from the banks of Lake Vembanad over to this tropical inland island will immediately put you in a state of utter relaxation
- Airy cottages with their own terraces surrounded by the sounds of nature and beautiful backwater views
- A wonderful combination of solitude and safety, on a peaceful island separate from the chaos of India on the other shore
Lows
- Those wanting a lot of privacy may not take to the friendly, sociable atmosphere
- The area's humidity can get unbearable from March onwards, and there’s no pool to cool you down, but all cottages are air-conditioned and there are fans placed in outside areas to keep the air moving while you relax, read and chat
- Alcohol isn't available on site, but you may bring your own to enjoy in rooms and communal areas - just make sure you don't interfere with other guests' experiences
Best time to go
October until January are the cooler, more pleasant months; the humidity soars from March until June, after which the rains (and the prices) start to fall.
Our top tips
- Homestay Guesthouse
- 6 rooms
- All meals included
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Bicycles Available
- Fishing rods available
- Sunset cruise
Rooms
Though it’s billed as a homestay, each of the 6 waterfront cottages has lots of privacy and space. They’re all set in a neat line along the waterfront, with terraces and beautiful views over the backwaters and the passing boats and fishermen.
The 3 older cottages were designed by Swiss architect Karl Damschen, who included some delightful touches such as beautifully carved doors and pillars, and 3 doors to the outside world. Throw these open during the day for maximum breeze, or up the ante with the air-conditioning if needs be.
We stayed in one of the newer cottages and, despite being designed by a different architect (Kochi-based Thomas Dominic), they shared a similar style, layout and spirit. That said, we did enjoy having the added bonus of a separate living area.
Although mod-cons are limited, the shower bathrooms are spotless and all the beds are comfortable. Best of all, the colourful reflections all around make sunset a real treat - and sunrise, with its dawn chorus, even more so.
Features include:
- Fan
- In-room treatments available
- Minibar
- WiFi
Eating
All meals at Philipkutty’s are lavish communal feasts home-cooked by the graceful and skilled Mrs Mathew Senior, using lots of local ingredients from the farm. They’re often the high point of the day.
For lunch and dinner, guests share a big circular table groaning with about 6 curries and various accompaniments. It’s all south Indian cuisine and there are no menus (you get what you’re given), but expect lots of fish-based dishes, Keralan spices and dhals. We had the fish molee (which Rick Stein cooked while filming here for one of his TV shows), as well as curried prawns, fried fish and banana fritters. Everything tasted fresh and healthy, and our days soon became an easy cycle of eat, rest, repeat.
The cottages’ self-catering facilities are limited to tea- and coffee-making equipment and a refrigerated minibar (no alcohol is provided but they do include free drinking water).
Luncheon parties are sometimes hosted, strictly by prior arrangement, for passing guests who catch a boat from the mainland.
Features include:
- All meals included
- Communal dining
- Dinner by arrangement
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- Sit on the veranda of your traditional Keralan cottage, beside the silent verdant backwaters, and watch the world float by
- Watch Mrs Mathew Senior ('Mummy') cook another feast and take notes, cooking lessons can often be arranged if requested in advance
- Take a sunset cruise along the backwaters on a vallam (local canoe); bring mozzie repellant
- Join an early-morning walk around the farm to learn about everything from the crops (coconut, banana, cocoa, nutmeg, pepper and mangoes) to the harvests and their uses
- Observe the birdlife, either from your cottage or on a boat-trip to the nearby bird sanctuary: there are cormorants, teals and ducks (Oct-Feb), plus herons, egrets, storks and snake birds (Feb-July)
- Visit the local markets and temples across the waters
- Cycle around the villages, stopping to observe coir-making, mat-making and scampi-fishing
- Try a spot of fishing (rods are available), or go scampi-spiking (September to December only)
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Ayurvedic treatments
- Birdwatching
- Cooking classes
- Cycling
- Fishing
- Plantlife / flora
- Shopping / markets
- Traditional cultures
Kids
Children are very welcome, and older kids will enjoy being immersed in a working farm.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years), Teens (over 12)
Family friendly accommodation:
There is a Family Cottage with 2 separate bedrooms and a living room centered around a courtyard, but the traditional Keralan design means that every cottage is spacious and could easily sleep 3 without feeling cramped. (Expect one large room divided into smaller spaces.)
Cots Available, Extra Beds Available, Family Rooms
Babysitting:
Available by arrangement.
Baby equipment:
Baby cots (on request).
Remember baby and child equipment may be limited or need pre-booking
Kids Activities on site:
- Working farm
- Backwater cruise
- Cooking lesson
- Birding
- Cycling
Families Should Know:
Those with toddlers should be aware of the waterfront location
Distances:
- Airport: 2.5-3 hours
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Philipkutty's Farm is located in the Keralan backwaters, near Kumarakom, in southern India.
By Air:
Cochin International (75km) is the closest airport, although Kerala's other international airport, Trivandrum International (175km), is served by more airlines and is a more likely entry point.
From the Airport
It’s a 60-90 minute trip from Cochin airport; the last leg of the journey is a scenic 5-minute boat ride across the lake to the island. Philipkutty's Farm can arrange transfers.
By Train:
You can take a train from either airport to Kottayam (the journey is 2-3 hours from Cochin), which is 20km from the island. Transfers from the station can be arranged.
By Boat:
Access by houseboat can be arranged if required, request when booking.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Kerala and getting around
Airports:
- Cochin (Kochi) International 75.0 km COK
- Trivandrum International (Thiruvananthapuram) 175.0 km TRV
Other:
- Beach 20.0 km
- Shops 0.5 km
- Restaurant 9.0 km