Tourist Kerala is a well-trodden path, but for slightly slower pace of life and a different perspective of this magical corner of India, a houseboat cruise along the waterways of vast Vembanad Lake is a chance to fully embrace its nature, birdlife and vibrant culture.
Spice Coast Cruises operates seven houseboats, converted from traditional kettuvallams (cargo boats that used to carry rice and spices). On a 1-3 day cruise along the network of backwater canals, you can enjoy creature comforts and personalised service while taking in the local landscape. You'll stop off to observe village life and learn about traditional Keralan practices, from fishing to weaving. The one- or two-cabin boats (for two or four guests respectively) each have a staff of three and are designed to provide a fully immersive experience. Begin with breakfast on deck, before setting off along the banks accompanied by local villagers in their dug-outs ferrying their wares to market (which may well include fish for that night’s dinner.) After a stop or two to explore some of the myriad villages that dot the shoreline, it’s back on board for a fabulous al fresco dinner as evening falls. As your own chef prepares the night’s feast, a magnificent starscape reveals itself. Nocturnal animals begin to play the evening’s musical score, as lights of villages flicker in the distance. It's theatre, but not as you know it.
Highs
- Service is relaxed and friendly but professional. Staff consist of former fishermen, full of knowledge about the area. You also have your own personal chef! The food is fantastic, varied, and prepared using the freshest of ingredients, including a daily catch and spices from nearby plantations
- Sustainability – boats have been given a second life as houseboats, are powered by solar energy and vegetable oils, and life on board is designed around having minimal impact on the environment
- Despite their functional heritage, the houseboats are surprisingly spacious and sympathetically designed, with plenty of shade to hide from the sweltering sun
- The boats offer the chance to witness at close quarters this centuries-old way of life on the tranquil Keralan backwaters
- Rates include all meals and almost all activities
Lows
- There’s only water and occasional juices served on board – but if you want alcohol or anything else, bring your own. Staff are happy to serve it
- Air-conditioning (an essential) can be quite loud in the still of night so bring earplugs
- Whilst perfectly comfortable, these are not like luxury hotels you’ll find on land, so don’t expect marble floors, or 24-hour running water and electricity.
- No baby cots or extra beds possible due to space restrictions
- Perhaps a bit pricey by Keralan standards, but everything is included, so you can just relax knowing everything is taken care of
Best time to go
October to April is generally very dry, although temperatures (and humidity) rise dramatically from March until around May. June to September is monsoon season so it’s cooler but wetter, and although atmospheric, you may well see less out on the water during these months.
Our top tips
This is mosquito country and they are determined. Although mosquito nets are provided in the rooms, stock up on lots of insect repellent before you travel. The air-con means the rooms are usually fine by night but early evenings on deck are when they feast. Also, bring plenty of sunscreen; the sun can be fierce and you're exposed even in the shade due to the reflection of the water.
- Traditional houseboats
- 7 boats with 1 or 2 bedrooms
- All meals included
- Children aged 0-4 welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- On the beach
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car not necessary
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
There are two types of houseboat – One-Cabin which sleep two, and Two-Cabin which sleep up to four. Despite their former lives as local cargo vessels, they are comfortable, and sympathetically designed with their split bamboo and coir roofs, earth-toned fabrics and furnishings, occasional artwork and spacious double beds. Boat lengths are the same, irrespective of number of cabins, but the Two-Cabin houseboats are wider.
You get a private bathroom (not exactly the height of modern but perfectly clean and functional) with basic complimentary toiletries. Do note that hot water is only available at specific times. Boats also have a private dining and relaxation area, open on all sides to take in the views but also shaded enough to escape the midday sun or any rain showers.
There’s air-con at night and fans throughout the day.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Fan
- Hairdryer
- Safe box
- Toiletries
Eating
Each boat also has an on board-kitchen with cooking best left to the professionals, who do a fantastic job. Having your own chef on board means there’s no set menu; what you eat depends entirely on your own choices plus whatever is fresh on the day. Throughout your stops at the villages, you can explore the local produce and it can be prepared for you at any time. Vegetarian meals are catered for but, unsurprisingly, a lot of the cuisine in this region revolves around fish – the latest catch is prepared and grilled on the boat (karimeen/pearl spot or seer fish usually), perhaps marinated in chilli, ginger and lime, and served with tadka dal, okra, gourds or other locally sourced greens. Accompanying rice is from the region's paddyfields too.
You can also opt for chicken, king prawns, curries and chapatis or parathas, all cooked daily and sometimes even served as a traditional sadhya, on banana leaves. And the dishes can be as mild or spicy as you like. It's really up to you. If you want wine or cocktails, remember to bring any alcohol with you – the crew will chill it until you’re ready.
Features include:
- All meals included
- Coffee maker
Activities
- Spice Coast Cruises offers 1-, 2- or 3-night standard cruises. We’d recommend two nights at least as this way you get to see much more of the hidden backwaters of Kerala and gain a richer experience and insight into this centuries-old way of life
- Lake Vembanad is the longest in India and supports a huge number of people and their varied livelihoods from agriculture to tourism. Along the way, you can visit local markets and craft shops and stop for tea in local cafes, or even try your hand at coconut tapping – the art of collecting coconut water, straight from source. The markets here are great for, no surprise, spices – so stock up on cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom
- Try a spot of fishing over the side (ask in advance to arrange) and you may well end up catching your own dinner
- This is a supremely relaxing endeavour, and for many a highlight of their trip to Kerala. Sunbathe, explore villages, and birdwatch (the lake and backwaters are home to over 170 types of birds with binoculars, of course, provided). There’s nothing better than sitting back with a glass of something chilled and watching the world slip by
- If so inclined, you can ask the team to bring a couple of bicycles on board so you can take a ride at one of the stop-off points
- Ask to visit the Mannarasala temple to see an ancient pilgrimage site for devotees of serpent Gods, with over 100,000 images of snakes – the largest in Kerala
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Birdwatching
- Boat trips
- Farm tours
- Fishing
- Historical sites
- Plantlife / flora
- Shopping / markets
- Traditional cultures
Kids
Kids may like the adventure, but note that there are no lifejackets or guard rails so it may not be ideal for younger children. However, babies and infants up to the age of 4 can be accommodated if sleeping in their parents' bed. Due to space constraints, there are no baby cots or extra beds.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Toddlers (1-4 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
Families of four need to book a two-cabin houseboat. If a couple or two couples are travelling with a child/children under 5, the kids can sleep in their parents' bed.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
Spice Coast Cruises depart from a pier on Lake Vembanad, south of Kannankara in Kerala. This is about 30 minutes north of Alleppey (Alappuzha), on the southwestern tip of India.
By Air:
The nearest airport is Kochi/Cochin International Airport, which is around 70km away. Airport transfers are available on request, or you can arrange your own cab ride, with standard fees set at the airport. Transfers take around 1hr 30mins.
By Train:
Nearby Cherthala sits on the line between Trivandrum and Cochin and is served by several trains a day. Staff can arrange a transfer from the station.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Cochin International Airport 70.0 km COK
Other:
- Beach 0.0 km
- Shops 0.0 km
- Restaurant 0.0 km
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