You’re never far from history at La Maison Pavie. It occupies a 15th-century house opposite a honey-hued basilica in central Dinan; wander inside and you’ll find ancient wattle-and-daub walls, stone hearths and delightfully wonky floors. Even the furnishings take their inspiration from the building’s past, with the travels of famed explorer Auguste Pavie (born within its walls in 1847) forming a continuous decorative thread. Oriental antiques are dotted around the 5 rooms and suites, all named after Far Eastern cities visited by Pavie, and Asian figurines preside over the dining table. But don’t be fooled into thinking a stay here means stepping back in time: this is one stylish B&B indeed, stuffed full of 21st-century comforts and contemporary classics from the likes of Philippe Starck and Paola Navone.
Dinan itself is one of Brittany’s gems, a busy market town whose half-timbered buildings, cobbled lanes and medieval ramparts look like they’ve been lifted straight from a swashbuckling Hollywood blockbuster. There’s a pretty port to potter around, fabulous restaurants and boutiques to indulge yourself in, and beautiful beaches within striking distance. At the end of the day, head back to the B&B and sink into a fireside sofa, then slip upstairs to your raftered room, where snazzy showers and heavenly beds await. We loved it, and we can’t wait to return.
Highs
- An imaginative fusion of old and new: perspex ‘Ghost’ chairs sit by carved tables, sleek shower heads hang from gnarled beams, and the lounge’s 18th-century panelling is painted a striking petrol-blue
- Tasty breakfast goodies include just-baked bread, sweet brioches and excellent coffee
- Fantastic hosts, who know when to chat and when to be discreet
- Great-value rates that include plenty of extras - tea and coffee, bottled water, delicious Breton biscuits and a parking permit
- There’s a lovely little garden for summer drinks (bring your own wine and they’ll chill it for you)
Lows
- You’ll need to negotiate a steep, narrow staircase to reach rooms on the upper floors
- With open-plan bathrooms and no twin bedrooms, it's best suited to couples; no kids under 12 allowed
- The house's period charm makes for a few creaks and groans - plus occasional bumped heads
- Central Dinan is tricky to negotiate by car, with tight streets and a one-way system that bamboozled our sat-nav
- There's no full-time reception, so note the check-in times
Best time to go
Dinan is wonderful at any time of year. Choose spring or summer for lazy days on the river (though be prepared for crowds during school holidays), or autumn and winter for crisp walks and cosy evenings by the fire. In July the Fête des Remparts sees medieval-style banquets and jousting along the town's streets, and come December the multitude of boutiques and delis make Christmas shopping a treat.
Our top tips
From May to October, you can hop on a ferry for a scenic 3-hour float along the river between Dinan and Saint-Malo. Both towns are best seen from the water, and you’ll pass through pretty villages, flower-filled meadows and locks along the way. Timings vary according to the tide and it’s often not possible to sail to Saint-Malo and back again in a day, so take the bus there, enjoy a long lunch, and catch the late-afternoon boat back.
- Boutique B&B
- 5 rooms
- Breakfast
- Over 12s welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
Rooms
It’s a steep climb up to the 5 rooms, but you’ll be rewarded with a cool, uncluttered space and beautifully preserved original features. But, while the stone walls and soaring rafters may be historic, the furnishings and fittings certainly aren’t: there’s a hint of Indochina in the funky Paola Navone chairs and log-like tables, and contemporary treats include back-friendly mattresses, snazzy clocks-cum-heating controls that resemble steel wands, and sleek in-room showers and sinks (thankfully, toilets are tucked away behind doors or partitions).
The 2 Standard Rooms on the second floor, Kampot and Champassack, are small but swish, with state-of-the-art rain heads hanging from beams in the glass-enclosed showers. A rung up the price ladder - and a little larger - is the Superior Room, Vinh-Long, which features a striking gold and black mural and a slate-lined double shower. It sits on the first floor next to the communal lounge, but as this is closed from 10pm you won’t find your slumber disturbed by night-owl guests.
We were lucky enough to stay in one of the 2 suites, Angkor, a cavernous space spanning the width of the house, with views over Place Saint-Sauveur to the front and the garden to the rear. A fireplace occupies one wall, beautiful panelling another, and the bathroom sits on a raised platform designed to resemble the bow of a ship. The other suite, romantic Luang Prabang, is perched at the top of the house, with a fabulous four-poster bed, a freestanding bathtub and a walk-in shower.
All rooms have hairdryers, WiFi, bottled water, and (when we visited - don't ask me why) a very cute stuffed toy sheep.
Features include:
- Central heating
- Complimentary bottled water
- Hairdryer
- Toiletries
- TV
- WiFi
Eating
Breakfast is served commnually in the first-floor dining room: a tasty spread of pastries, superb cheeses, eggs, fruit and more. Lea will chat to you while ferrying fresh juice and coffee to the table in quirky cups that resemble eggshells. There’s also a Nespresso machine and a selection of excellent teas which you can use to make a brew at any time, day or night (though you can’t take hot drinks up to your room).
For dinner, there are plenty of restaurants on the cobbled streets fanning out from Place Saint-Sauveur. We wandered up rue Sainte-Claire to Le Cantorbery, a friendly little place where meat and seafood are grilled over an aromatic wood fire. Here, we tucked into a huge platter of juicy prawns with aioli, followed by wonderfully tender steaks and a bottle of the latest Beaujoulais. We rounded things off with a coupe colonel (lemon sorbet doused in vodka) and a deliciously light Cointreau soufflé with candied orange peel.
Features include:
- Breakfast
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Explore delightful Dinan: climb the 15th-century Tour de l’Horloge, stock up on cider and salami in the delis, take in panoramic views from the Jardin Anglais. All the main sights are just a short stroll from the B&B
- Wander down the steep, gallery-lined rue du Petit-Four to the port, where a pretty stone bridge crosses the River Rance and boats bob along the quay; there are plenty of waterfront restaurants for a spot of lunch
- Visit Saint-Malo (20 mins' drive), whose citadel commands a spectacular position at the mouth of the Rance estuary. Amble along the ramparts and breathe in the sea air, then tuck into moules-frites and a glass of vin blanc at one of the bistros on Place Chateaubriand. At low tide, venture across the causeways that snake out from Saint-Malo to the tiny island of Grand-Bé and the Fort National
- Laze on the beach at Dinard, a smart little resort town just across the estuary from Saint-Malo, or find a secluded spot along the unspoilt Emerald Coast, which stretches west towards St-Brieuc
- Indulge yourself in the oyster-obsessed town of Cancale: it’s packed with restaurants, as well as striped stalls where you can buy them for a fraction of the normal cost
- Head an hour south to admire the mighty medieval château at Fougères: one of the largest castles in Europe, with 13 towers ringed by a river
- Hike along the dramatic Côte du Granit Rose, lined with bizarre pink-tinged rock formations
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Boat trips
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Shopping / markets
- Swimming
Kids
Older children are welcome, though the sophisticated vibe is more suited to grown-ups. There are no extra beds so children will need their own room.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
La Maison Pavie stands on Place Saint-Sauveur in the centre of Dinan, in Brittany, northwest France. It’s 20km inland from the coast, and very convenient for the ferry port and airport at Saint-Malo.
By Air:
Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo (19km away) is the closest airport, although Rennes Saint-Jacques (59km away) is also within easy reach. Both are served by flights from the UK, Paris and elsewhere in Europe - click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the Airport
You can take a taxi, but we’d recommend hiring a car (see below). The drive from Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo takes 20 minutes; from Rennes it’s around an hour.
By Ferry from the UK:
The ferry port at Saint-Malo is only 32km from the B&B and has regular services from Poole, Weymouth and Portsmouth. If you're tying a stay here with some time in western Brittany, you can also sail from Plymouth to Roscoff (171km away).
By Train:
If you'd prefer to travel overland, take the Eurostar from London to Paris, then catch the high-speed TGV from Gare Montparnasse to Rennes. From Rennes you’d need to hire a car or take a bus. There is a station in Dinan itself, but trains rarely stop there.
By Car:
It’s possible to stay here without a car, as there are numerous restaurants within strolling distance, but we’d recommend having your own transport so that you can make the most of the wider area. For car hire, please see our car rental recommendations.
Dinan’s one-way system makes La Maison Pavie a little difficult to find. You can pull up outside the B&B to unload luggage; then continue to a secure car park around the corner (a pass for this is included in the room rate).
More on getting to Brittany and getting around
Airports:
- Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo 19.0 km DNR
- Rennes Saint-Jacques 59.0 km RNS
Other:
- Beach 20.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km
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